Some swell would be nice (even though I have a young child and certainly cannot paddle out on Christmas day). I've looked at the forecasts for the next few days. It appears that Santa's got a lot of love for California! In fact, judging by the graphs...

The improvements now are much more slow than before. Nevertheless, the improvements continue. I can finally crouch, painful though it is. In addition to the massage therapy, I've begun forcing the flexion on my own. Several times a day, I kick up my...

I'm always reminded that I'm different. Usually, it's the stares I get as I paddle out to the lineup. Sometimes it's the conversation (which does get old, people) about the fact that the person who initiated the discussion had never seen a black woman...

I know you think I mean you should get yourself another board. Wrong (even though my newest hull is awaiting glassing). I mean you're fooling yourself if you haven't already added a surf mat to your quiver of surf craft. My latest Hawaii-related...

I managed to get in a session on Thursday after waiting for the water to clean up and before the rain began again in earnest. Now they've predicted rain for a few more days. I'll once again be waiting 72 hours (after the last rain) before I paddle out...